For the first time since I discovered the beauty of this country and the gentleness of its people I have encountered the conflicts which exist around different traditions of Buddhism, a lack of knowledge, or seeming distrust, of other faiths, and the deeper conflict between dissenting Buddhists and government authorities. Prudence advises that I take care in reporting the events which provided the venue through which I met these heated differences of opinion. My goals here remain unchanged, that is, to come to understand and appreciate this people and their culture and to quietly discover paths by which “good-hearted Canadians” can come to help even the most disadvantaged of Vietnamese to practice English. My own political savvy over the years has been augmented by the advice and confirmation from my closest friends and advisors on this journey “to be careful”.
The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is only 34 years of age and is, I think, justifiably suspicious of “foreigners”. I need not remind you, gentle reader, of the invasions of this beautiful land from both Eastern and Western “foreigners” and the horrendous cost in terms of lost lives, livelihoods, culture, and long-serving physical and spiritual wounds.
All that having been said my reports home to friends and family would be nothing more than superficial travelogues if I did not report on the deeper meaning and significance of my experiences be they cultural, spiritual, culinary, or, as in this case, overtly religious and political.
Adam Tran and I spent an interesting session at Phuoc Buu Pagoda with security and Immigration officials who explained that our C1 Tourist visa’s allowed us to stay overnight in hotels or private homes but not in a Buddhist pagoda. As best as I can understand it my previous six weeks at Phuoc Buu Pagoda was an anomaly permitted at least in part by authorities wishing not to make my first visit to Vietnam a difficult one. But now we know and future visits to Xuyen Moc and other parts of Vietnam will result in sleeping outside Pagodas although time during the day may be spent in whatever manner we choose.
Back in Long An, the local security officials were very generous, even exceeding Kim Oanh’s expectations, by granting us written permission to stay in private homes in Long An for the entire extent of our visas—in my case through to August 22nd.
I have invented the descriptor “Pagoda-ed out” as a phrase to describe our numerous visits to Pagodas of various sizes and under diverse circumstances—some quite small, some with large dormitories and training centres, one undergoing a fund-raising campaign and ground-breaking celebration and another celebrating the funeral of one of Vietnam’s leading Buddhist dissenters and political prisoners. In the heat of this humid summer to don the sky-blue robe of a Buddhist devotee made me feel even warmer and somewhat self-conscious. However, I was something of an “item” as a bearded, head-shaven, “Buddhist foreigner” as was the tall, handsome twenty-year old Canadian (Adam) and we did not want to disappoint our hosts. Plenty of photos were taken (I’m sure the cameramen were representing local and Buddhist media outlets). I’m also sure that our every move was observed carefully by security officials, as much for our own protection as not.
Since our return to Long An and the fast-growing rice-fields which lusciously surround us we have visited one of Kim Oanh’s family member’s homes to meet at one and the same time, this community’s spiritual/meditation leader (not linked with any particular religious tradition) and a young female tailor. The latter will make me some new dress pants and Asian-style shirts from handsome materials I have purchased in HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City) and Vung Tau. The former advised me, after piercing scrutiny, to limit my volunteerism and religious pre-occupations. I carry my deeply ingrained Canadian skepticism and “I’ll believe it when I see it” approach to this fascinating, friendly and obviously perceptive man. But as a test, I’m not wearing any adornments (my Hopi ring and Buddhist bracelet) for the duration of my stay here. And I will plan to keep in touch with this man whose handsome locks of mixed black and gray hair, and deep amiable brown eyes convey kindness, depth, and good humour instantly.
Yesterday Adam centred himself on a large wooden table/bed and helped four or five Vietnamese children learn the names of various vegetables in English. Plastic carrots, apples, pumpkins, mangos and chilies provided an entertaining vehicle for the beautiful and fast-learning students to grasp the words and thoroughly enjoy their time with this fascinating stranger who they clinged to with passion and excitement.
Last night we walked the narrow concrete paths between the rice fields to the light of a near full moon and starry night and the sounds of frogs. Frogs in Vietnam play a different and more baritone throat instrument than the “peepers” I’ve known in Nova Scotia and Alberta.
This morning I followed the butterflies, ducks, chicks, puppies and wild birds on something of a meditative walk stopping to rest and read Thich Nhat Hanh’s “The Blooming of the Lotus: Guided Meditation for Achieving the Miracle of Mindfulness” and as yesterday, Coleman Barks’ “The Essential Rumi”. My only completed reading to date is Thich Nhat Hanh’s “True Love”, a lovely little book that guided my meditative practice for my first days here and one I highly recommend.
The food is predominantly local. We fished yesterday and both Adam and Kim Oanh were victorious—fished right out of the ponds in the back yard. Even with such an enclosed environment I couldn’t get much more than a nibble but at least I was spared the questions I might now have about reigning in this living entity. All of the vegetables and fruits are locally grown and in fact most of the greens are picked directly from the immediate spaces surrounding this comfortable traditional home.
There are several little children in this family whose daily lives we intimately share. Be Bi, Tina, Be An. They are simply gorgeous and I cannot resist sending photos of them to you.
Tonight we will travel to Long An Town where in the noisier but somewhat cooler evening we will do a highly eventful thing: we will observe the full moon! Life’s most simple and readily available things are here as they are for you surrounding us at every step. It is good to be alive. It is such a great series of gifts to have the wherewithal to enjoy this life as I hope and trust you enjoy yours. I am surrounded by dear and loving friends, Adam, Kim Oanh and all her family members, all of the delightful students from Xuyen Moc and the Venerable Thay who has just received notice of the granting of his visa to visit Canada.
When the chicks run through our kitchen and when the kittens curl at your feet waiting patiently for a taste of the fish caught in the pond just outside your door one cannot help but rejoice in life’s abundance and delightful interrelationships—a truly magnificent sense of oneness of nature and persons.
...and if Kim Oanh has her way you dear reader might soon be one to share this rare opportunity as an inter-cultural/educational traditional Vietnam vacation at modest cost. That is my wish for each and every one of you--either that or an email or facebook “pen-pal”! :>)
So many unplanned and unforeseen events occur each day (although our inestimably valuable translator/cultural interpreter/tourist guide/dear friend Kim Oanh is perpetually engaged in planning and thinking ahead) that I will by force of delightful circumstances and events be moved to write again soon with a colorful update.
Originally written June 7, 2009.
